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Leeuwin Estate Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon, 2017

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If you tasted this wine blind, you’d be forgiven for thinking you were in St Julien or Pauillac. There is such poise and well-crafted structure to the wine which lift and punctuate the stony, blueberry fruit just perfectly. The main difference is that if you were in St Julien and Pauillac, drinking a wine of this quality, you’d be paying much more!

2017 was a slightly cooler vintage and the expressive fragrance of the wine both on the nose and the palate is fantastic. The bunches are berry sorted and undergo a five-day cold soak at 10 degrees. Lots of gravel in the soil and lots of small berries amongst the bunches, part in thanks to the vines being amongst the original plantings and partly thanks to the zero-irrigation practiced, bring a unique and effortless balance and concentration. It’s quite remarkable to see such power combined with such focus and definition.

The 50% new oak is perfectly judged. Whilst the Chardonnay grabs all the headlines and glory, this seems to be a wine that the shrewdies will latch on to, for its sheer class and quality. Drink up to 2040 and well beyond...

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